Preliminary Fence Map

Well, this map needs a quite a bit of work, but it's a start. It's overlaid on a 1960's aerial photo that shows the contours well.

1. Blue is the new barbless wire fence we put in this summer and fall. It was a big project with many helpers.
   
2. Yellow is barbed wire in place now that I would like to replace with smooth wire.
3. Green is new smooth wire fence yet to be done, usually where there is an old fence or around trees
   
4. Red is barbed wire to be taken out - often where Lawrence did not have a fence. Red and and another color together show a fence to be moved back where it was years ago.
5. Purple is semi permanent fence using twine or light wire like temporary fence so it can be taken up or moved, but with more t posts or screw in insulators than temporary fence. It's currenly used around the orchard, the white pines down by the old foundation, buildings, etc. Dashed purple is interior barbed wire fence I would like to replace with semi permanent fence.
   
6. Thin dashed purple is temporary fence (at the top of the bowl).
   

Here are the practices I try to follow:

1. I've found that the most significant attribute of a fence is how tight it is. A tight barbless fence is respected by the cows more that a loose barbed wire fence. Same goes for a tight cold fence versus a loose hot one - they'll jump over or slip under a loose fence even when it's hot.
   
2. Use smooth wire over barbed.
3. Run two or more strands where crops are on the other side.
   
4. When possible, use the same fence lines that Lawrence did. Otherwise, follow contours of the land. Avoid traffic where land is vulnerable to erosion.
   
5. Leave existing fence in place unless it is a hazard. Remove down wire and posts.
6. When the existing fence is good, run the electric wire across the tops of the posts with toppers, for example on the east side of the sheep pasture.
7. Manage trees: protect trees from cattle, especially from foraging and traffic. Fence off vulnerable trees, especially fruit trees and conifers. Leave trees accessible for shade at edges of fields. Let cows clear out prickly ash and multiflora rose in gullies so grass can grow reducing erosion.
   
8. Use high quality material & lots of Gripples so fence can be kept really tight.
   
9. Use screw in insulators on dead, damaged, or overtopped trees only, in that order.
   
10. Make gates double handled.
11. Use semi permanent and temporary fence where possible. Set up temporary fence in a regular pattern with secure ends so it is tight.

Smooth wire pros:

1. Less hazardous to the animals. Highland cattle especially like to rub on barbed wire in the winter and can get entangled. Less likely to cause severe electric shock.
   
2. Easier to keep tight - stretches easily with a fencing tool without catching on insulators.
   
3. Easier to install.
4. Lighter so posts can be set up to 70 feet apart where ground is flat.
   

Cons:

1. A loose smooth wire fence may be less effective than a loose barbed wire fence. Of course a loose barbed wire fence is especially hazardous.
2. Barbed wire is more visible. Fence flags can help make smooth wire more visible. More a hazard to humans than cows as the cows know where the fences are.

Semi permanent and temporary fence pros:

1. Traffic can be managed to eliminate cow paths, either by preventing them or rerouting traffic to allow paths to grow back.
2. Keeps the landscape open.
3. Can fine tune rotational grazing by moving fence more or less often.
4. Time spent moving fence is a good opportunity to observe herd.
5. Fence can be moved so that refused or over mature forage can be mowed easily in late summer.

Cons:

1. It takes more time to set up temporary fence. This can be minimized by planing ahead and having secure endpoints so temporary fences are tight, reducing the number of step ins required.